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You'll not only be the best dressed, but the smartest too for having saved so much money. We do not rent, share or sell your personal information. This goes for all sweaters. So where the white shirt cuff stops in my picture below. Just make sure it ends at the bend of the wrist and not before or after. As you can see in my picture below, it still looks great. Like with all your garments in the Essential Series , you want the shoulder seams to hit just where your shoulders start to slope down into your arms.
For any sweater, you want to be able to pinch no more than 2 inches of fabric on either side of your lower rib cage. You want it to lightly hug your torso, but not be so loose or tight. I know some of my larger clients fight me on this, but they always come around when they see how much better and fitted it looks. This only applies to v-necks, as crew neck sweaters are all pretty universal. The opening of the v-neck should be just wide enough so that you can tuck your collar tips and they stay in place — like the image above.
The blazer should end around mid to lower crotch. If your sleeves are longer, a tailor can easily fix that. You should see no divots or wrinkles in the shoulders anywhere. The shoulders should lay perfectly flat, with no divots or rumpling or pulling on the shoulders. This is a very easy and common fix for a tailor to do. The collar should rest against your shirt collar, which in turn should rest against the back of your neck. All of these should touch lightly, without significant gaps in between.
The picture below shows where the armholes should be on your blazer. My rule of thumb is no more than about an inch above and never, ever below. You should see no divots or wrinkles in the shoulders, as well. With your arms straight down, bend your wrist, so your palms are facing the ground, the sleeves should lightly touch the top of your hand.
Where the white shirt cuff is hitting is where your coat sleeves should be hitting. Just enough to cover it, basically. When buttoned, the coat should not be roomy, but should lie close to your body. That being said, it should be in no way taut or feel constricting on your chest or midsection when wearing it over a suit or blazer. This picture below of the same coat my model is wearing, by Brooks Brothers perfectly illustrates how it should fit in the body.
A good rule of thumb is mid-thigh to just above your knee is where your Overcoat should hit. Just like with Overcoats, you want the shoulder seams of a Peacoat to end where your shoulders naturally end — where they start curving down to your arm, basically. If you have more rounded shoulders, the seam should still end in the same place. If the shoulders are too big or small, a tailor will have a very hard time fixing this, and it would be very expensive — if it was even possible.
So ensure these fit properly before buying your peacoat. Just like an Overcoat: Where the white shirt cuff is hitting is where your Peacoat sleeves should be hitting. When buttoned, the jacket should lightly hug your midsection, but not feel tight or constricting. When wearing your Peacoat, leave the bottom two buttons unbuttoned. Buttoning a Peacoat all the way down is very odd looking and never done by anyone but a rookie.
On my model, above, the Peacoat ends right around lower crotch. Balancing proportions is a mistake a lot of guys make and can really influence how big or small you look in clothing. This is pretty straight-forward. Anything wider will be more bulky and is considered more casual. Even though the width is only slightly smaller than a casual belt, it makes a huge difference in appearance. Compare this picture of a guy wearing a wider belt as a dress belt compared to the image of my model.
Anything more than that is too wide and will look out of place. Slimmer than that looks more like a dress belt. Sleeves The sleeves should hit around mid-bicep and lightly hug your arms.
Waist and Seat Like all your pants, they should fit perfectly around your waist with no need for a belt to hold them up. Length The shirt should end somewhere between upper to mid crotch. This advice goes for any of these pants: A lot of my clients ask me how should a sweater fit, so I figured it was time to write down my typical answer so you can understand this, as well. You can kind of see the seam sitting way too high on his shoulder on his bent arm side.
Arm Hole — Way too tight, you can see it bunching underneath his armpit. Sleeve Length — The sleeves are way too short, which is why he has them pulled up on his forearms in this picture. I know this because See the next point Body Length — The body length is about 2 inches too short.
At the shortest point, a sweater should hit past the bottom of your belt buckle. What a Sweater Looks Like When Its Too Big Shoulders — The seams are way past where his shoulder starts sloping down and are just resting on the upper part of his arms — not good. Body Fit and Length — I bet if he pulled his hands out of his pockets, the sweater would be way too long and go past the 2 inch mark below his belt buckle.
Shoulders Like with all your garments in the Essential Series , you want the shoulder seams to hit just where your shoulders start to slope down into your arms.
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